I have designed my pattern by looking at many, many pictures online, to get a good idea of what a gambeson should look like. I have looked at other people’s. Posted: Sat 13 Feb, am Post subject: Choice of Gambeson patterns Reply with quote. Hi, I’m preparing to do a suit of mid-late 15th Century armor. Period Pattern ™ No Medieval Military Garments. Includes 3 gambesons, two with optional pockets for plates inside the skirt; 4 surcoats (including a cyclas );.

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A lot of it is pretty speculative from the historical point of view as there are no extant bits of padding from our period. Most had to make do with padded garments called gambesons to keep them save from swords, daggers, arrows, and other dangers they encountered.

Next trace only one arm opening you can fold your pattern in half lengthwise so that the dimensions will be exactly the same on both sides. This was why I have made the linen parts bigger than padding, so when I sew it together, the linen can be sewn together separately, without the need to punch the needle through the padding, This creates a tighter, stronger stitch and makes it far more elastic and easy to move, once the armour is finished.

Locket’s Log Random ramblings. The burst will tend to spread gradually along the length of the piece of broken thread, so this is best dealt with quickly.

The surcoats, hose and swordbelt can also be used as is or in an adapted form for civilian wear in these groups. This Gambeson is designed for simple construction.

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Sun 14 Feb, Also run Quilt tape around the perimeter of both sides of both pieces. There is probably a continuum between arming doublet and jack — arming doublets are quite lightly padded, and arming jacks are independent armour. The 14th Century Paladin Press,on pagehas such a collar. I did it by sewing the edges of the pieces together, like so:.

Although late medieval garments sometimes have separable sleeves, all the earlier examples seem to have either no sleeves or integral sleeves.

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Note, that this time I have made my stitching close to the edge of the material. It seems to behave similarly to wool, but without the risk of being converted into felt over time. Now, using safety pins, I have put the front and back parts together, and put it on for a try, to see if I needed any adjustments.

Tight and strong stitches made the armour stiffer, more resilient and provided the final look. The surcoat is shown unbelted: Critical measurements for this will be the length of the arm from the end of the gambesons shoulder to the wrist, diameter of your bicep at its thickest point, and the diameter of your forearm at its thickest point. Heavy stuffing is more protective that light stuffing. Laced on arms are much easier to make I am no tailor but I had no problems with them at all and far more durable than thse pernamently sewn on.

Same lacing were put on the front piece of my gambeson as well, to lace it together. Thanks, Dave De gustibus gakbeson disputandum est. I live in Caid; I’m not sure what the “official” calibration or standard level is. Similar considerations apply to shaping padded garments as do normal ones. The problem is that the tubes of the pattfrn and back portions tend to press together and pull the seam apart especially when the garment is not being worn.

Scrap-stuffing has poor consistency i.

On the other hand it might be that layered garments started to be worn under mail earlier, and patteern dotted garments are lighter versions of this, and the lined garments are stout versions patetrn than stuffed versions. I just like to keep one piece of continuos padding underneath the breastplate so that it does not bind or pinch beneath the plate.

Clothing might have been deliberately smoked over an fire to kill lice.

Underarm gussets do not gambeon to be shown, or for that matter side gussets. If you want to discuss contents of this page – this is the easiest way to do it.

Embrace the magic in all life. How to edit pages? Overlocker to finish edges Bias binding to finish lower edges Step 1: I was wondering if you have any advice for how to integrate the kidney belt portion of this particular arming jacket. Basically pattern this in the same way leaving an opening at the elbow and armpit.


Choice of Gambeson patterns —

Lean left and right. I gambesob you enjoyed this post- until next time!!! The shoulder seam can be removed by constructing the garment from a pattern like a giant poncho leading to very square shoulders. This will usually occur at the shoulders and the tops of the sleeves.

One had to have a sword belt to hold gambseon sword; this version includes the authentically accurate way to secure it. SCA stuff, and I make sure to plug your patterns wherever I used them.

It is authentic and very durable material, and as I portray a warrior with limited money, undyed material made more sense than dyed one, which would have been more expensive. It was a type of light armour, worn underneath chainmail, or as main armour by poorer warriors. Then, I stitched along those lines, making sure that the fabric did not shift, while I did it.

With your torso mockup on measure the distance from the front join of the torso mock up to about 3 inches above your knees and then do the same at the back to the same point on the knees from the rear. My gambeson goes down almost to my knee, to protect my thighs, and this split reaches to just above my tailbone. You can see that again, there is about 5mm left of just linen edge.

With the return of crusaders from the Holy Land surcoats became wildly popular.

Guide to Padded kit – Wikiwood

This locks in pahtern the stuffing and looks very nice. The appearance of immediately post dark-age gambesons worn alone is of a garment with vertical lines of sewing.

Arms, legs, and helmet will be stainless; arms and legs will be 16g.